Kraków, Poland
Kraków was an unexpected destination for us. Several weeks before in Lisbon, we were sitting at an outdoor cafe and started up a conversation with a couple from Tasmania, Australia. They had been traveling for seven months already and we were eager to hear their story. As we were talking, they mentioned that Kraków was one of their favorite European countries. So, as Jeff does, he started researching and we added this as the next stop after Prague.
Waiting for that lime green bus
Fast forward several weeks later and we were sitting having coffee at the Prague bus station waiting to depart to Kraków for a quick four-day visit. We started talking to another couple who were also heading to Kraków, but by train. Coincidentally, they also happened to be from Australia! We said our goodbyes and double checked the bus tickets to be sure we were standing at the right pickup area outside the train station. This was a stop on the journey and the bus would pull by the side of the road and then be off again, so we wanted to make sure we were at the right stop. Let’s just say that the bus stop signs are a bit confusing here. We were looking for a neon green FlixBus that would depart at 10:30 a.m. We tripled checked, asked anyone we could around us and felt confident that we were at the right stop as it had our bus number and destination on the pole. Until…we saw a neon green FlixBus on the other side of the four-lane highway! The only way to get across to the other side of the street was to go back inside the train station and take the underground passageway up to the other side. So, with backpacks in tow we started doing a walk/run to the underground tunnel. Jeff was a little ahead of me and Zach, and as I made it to the stairs going up to the street, I saw Jeff with his hand up saying, “Wait!” We have been early everywhere we’ve been to be sure we know exactly where we need to be, so this was our first fail with transportation. But, we had a laugh (later) and realized that this is as much of the adventure as everything else! So, 90 minutes later we were on the next bus, a 6-hour bus ride to Kraków that turned into a 9-hour bus ride due to traffic, and we arrived at our flat in the old Jewish Quarter at dark.
Besides seeing the city itself, one of the main reasons we decided to add Kraków to our itinerary was to visit Schindler’s Factory Museum and the Auschwitz-Birkenau Memorial. We visited Schindler’s Museum on the first day. More than a history of Schindler, it really focussed on the history of Poland and the events leading up to World War II. Initially, the museum tour was disappointing because the first few rooms were just a collection of artifacts without much context to them. We were both wondering if we had wasted our money. However, within a few rooms, the exhibits started making sense as they described what it was like in Kraków in the months before Germany invaded. Pictures of citizens and school children digging trenches and handing out gas masks. They even had the remains of a Polish “tank” that looked like a relic from World War I going against the German Panzers. Then, we moved into the a re-creation of the Jewish Ghetto in Kraków, where sounds, pictures, old newsreels, and even actual hand-written letters by the children made for a horrifying glimpse of that time. At the end of the tour, we stepped in Schindler’s office, which was all that was really left. Jeff ended up taking Zach out early as the actual photos towards the end were too overwhelming. It was a three-hour visit that was emotionally draining.
Jeff and I experienced both the Auschwitz and the larger Birkenau death camps on two separate days, each going solo with a tour group, while the other explored the city with Zach. Those tours were heavy-hearted as well, but we are both thankful we had the opportunity to honor all the Jews and others that lost their lives during this horrific time in history.
After all the sad history, we were ready to experience all the wonderful things the city had to offer. Jeff and Zach went for a run along the Vistula river and also went to a pinball museum where they could play all the old machines. Zach and I went on a tour of Old Town and Wawel Castle. Our guide, Bart, was a native of Kraków and a former history and archeology student. We also ran into the same couple from the Prague bus station, Monique and Jason! We were so surprised! I enjoyed talking with Monique and Jason and Zach became fast friends talking about venomous snakes and other animals from his homeland. Again, one of the best parts about this adventure is meeting all the wonderful people along the way!
Below are some of the sites we visited:
On our final day in Kraków we walked along the Vistula River and crossed the Father Bernatek Footbridge which ranks as one of the most interesting bridges we’ve seen to date. The works of art are hanging from extensions and move with the wind…amazing! No one could tell us what the figures were made out of because the artist has kept it a secret. We also exercised in the park and Jeff finally rented an electric scooter that we’ve seen all over Europe.
Last but not least…we definitely enjoyed some of the local favorite foods like pierogi, zapiekani, pretzels and lody (ice cream). They also have an amazing food truck culture! A special thanks to my friends from home, Reneé and Ewa, for the all the food recommendations from their childhood home. Kraków, you were the best surprise!
- Trish and Jeff
